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 PUYO

As capital of Pastaza Province and with a population of some 25,000, Puyo is one of the most important trade centres in the Oriente. But for tourists, the town is one of the main jumping-off points for trips deeper into the selva [rainforest]. Travellers mostly stay overnight in Puyo if they are waiting for a connecting flight or a bus going back up into the highlands. Though human settlements have existed here for many thousands of years and the town was founded by Dominicans in 1899, Puyo is only just adapting to gringo travellers.

The author Philippe Descola described its atmosphere succinctly as ‘a subtle blend of barbecued meat, overripe fruit and damp earth, sometimes overlaid with the pestilential exhaust fumes of a huge truck or jolting bus.’ That was in the 1970s, and it hasn't changed much since. Its name comes from the Quichua word for 'cloudy' and if you spend any time here, you'll soon understand why. If you're very fortunate you might spot both the incisors of the El Altar and the dome of the Sangay volcanoes in the distance.

Last updated 29th June 2006
|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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