An easy half-day trip from Quito and just 9km northeast of the capital's outskirts, Calderon is a small town renowned for its brightly coloured dough figures [masapan]. The tradition, thought to be pre-Hispanic, was subsumed into Catholicism under All Saints and the Day of the Dead [Nov 1 and 2], when simple, edible bread figures were brought to the cemetery and placed on top of the graves as an offering to the departed souls. Nowadays this has become a very colourful affair and its popularity has spawned a thriving figurine-making industry. You can't eat them, but then you wouldn't want to: many involve intricate detailing, such as clowns with extravagant mock-filigree ruffs and fibrous hair.

Places to visit

In town there are a number of good artesanias (craft workshops) on the main street Carapungo, which leads uphill from the main square. They're all open on weekdays and occasional Saturdays. One of the best is Artesania Carapungo, halfway up this street, which exports its pieces to Europe. Most have a workshop at the back where you can see the figures being made with an unpalatable mixture of flour, water, colourings, paint and varnish.

Getting there

Pink-and-white Interparroquial buses leave old-town Quito from the Plaza La Marin [a 40min trip], every few minutes. If you're in the new town, pick one up on the corner of Avenida America and Colon.

Last updated 10th July 2006