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 CUENCA

Considered the most beautiful city in the country, Cuenca likes to call itself the Athens of Ecuador. But its narrow, cobbled streets, houses with wrought iron balconies, flower-filled patios and many fine old churches are more reminiscent of ancient hill towns like Ronda and Cordoba of Andalucia in southern Spain. “Of all the earth, as far as I know it,” wrote the early twentieth century traveller Harry A. Franck, “Cuenca has the most perfect climate.” Most visitors wholeheartedly concur.

The city is proud of its colonial-style architecture, its many churches and its artistic and intellectual heritage. The University of Cuenca is rated as one of the best in Ecuador and Latin America, and at the same time the city is something of a colony of artists and artisans. The city ranks among the most Roman Catholic of the continent: its motto is “Primero Dios, Despues Vos” [First God, Then You].

Cuenca is also the biggest production centre of the misnamed “panama” hat. If you enjoy exploring back street markets, delving into old churches, museums and craft shops, sitting around in patio cafes and watching the world go by, then Cuenca is for you.

Background

The Cuenca area was inhabited by Canari Indians who put up a long and fierce fight against the Incas moving up from the south in the 15th century. Under the command of the Tupac Inca Yupanqui, the Incas eventually prevailed and built themselves a splendid city called Tomebamba in an area the Canaris called “Guapondelig”, which means “plain as vast as the sky.” The city was designed as a northern version of the magnificent Inca city of Cuzco. Reports spoke of buildings set with precious stones and emeralds, and sun temples covered with sheets of the finest gold. Sadly, Tomebamba was a short-lived accomplishment. Before the Spanish conquistadors' invasion the Incas destroyed their own creation. Today, not much remains of the Inca city aside from a few excavated walls by the River Tomebamba.

In April 1557, the Spanish founded the city of Cuenca to the northeast of the ruins of the Inca city in an area known as Paucarbamba, which in the Quichua language means “plain of flowers.” It was a well-chosen site with fertile soil watered by four rivers and a pleasant, spring-like climate. In typical fashion, the Spanish at once began building the cathedral on the west side of the main plaza, Parque Caldederon. As the city grew, and more buildings were constructed workers sometimes unearthed Inca artifacts. In 1980 excavations by the river undertaken by the Banco Central uncovered Inca tombs and skeletons, and silver and gold relics.

Last updated 12th July 2006

 

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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