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cities & towns
 MINDO
The small town of Mindo on the western slopes of the Andes, just 40km [25 miles] northwest of Quito as the condor flies, is a mecca for cognoscenti bird-watchers. In the dense surrounding cloudforest some 450 species have been observed. Trophies include the fabulous scarlet-crested Andean cock of the rock, the toucan barbet, the plate-billed mountain toucan and the velvet-purple coronet.

White water rafting
But you don't have to be a dedicated “twitcher” to appreciate Mindo's charm. If you prefer, you can simply enjoy the novelty and privacy of staying in a luxury tree-house cabana 10 m [33 ft] above the ground high, in the cloud forest canopy. Here in your bamboo aerie you can lie under your mosquito net while listening to a chorus of toucans sounding like the screeching of rusty nails being clawed from old lumber. Or you can just wander forest paths observing the unique ecosystem of the western slopes of the Andes, enjoying nature at its most abundant. Rio Mindo gushes down the steep mountainside, blazing a foaming path for hair-raising white water rafting.

Toucan

But if it's birds you're after, your man is Vinicio Perez, birdman extraordinaire. He can usually be found by asking around at the few bars in town, or you can leave a message with Vinicio's sister in Quito [02 - 612955], who should know the top twitcher's whereabouts. If he takes you birding, be prepared to get up at 5am and walk for two hours up steep slopes and through thick undergrowth. Your reward should be a magnificent arboreal show starring the incredible crimson-coated Andean cock of the rock chorus line.

Getting there

Cooperativa Flor del Valle [M. Larrea and Asuncion] leaves frequently from Quito [US$2*, 3 hours]. Also, the best access from Quito to Mindo is via the Calcali-Esmeraldas road in a turnoff at Km 59 to the left leads you to Mindo.

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Where to stay

El Monte provides private riverside cabanas from where you can experience firsthand the moss covered trees, crystal clear streams, spectacular orchids and exotic birds. Awaken to the symphony of forest noises... hear the sounds and try to imagine the source. Experience the cloud forest with all your senses, a forest not widely known by name but that could be described as the Garden of Eden or Paradise Found.

All cabanas are hand made, and each one has two floors. The top floor is for sleeping, with two beds and a small loft plus a comfortable bathroom complete with a full size tub and an unlimited amount of hot water. The bottom floor is for hanging out and has a hammock and two wooden benches. The forest is all around and the crystalline Rio Mindo passes just in front of each cabana.

See www.exclusivehotelsecuador.com for more information.

Places to visit
Maquipucuna Biological Reserve

Maquipucuna Biological Reserve
About 32 km [20 miles] north of Mindo, on the same western slopes of the Andes, is the Maquipucuna Biological Reserve, most of which is primary cloud forest. In this wildlife-rich area, close to 2,000 plants, some 322 birds, more than 200 butterflies and 45 mammals have been recorded. It's no wonder that Maquipucuna attracts naturalists like moths to a flame. For information about lodgings, prices and transport to the area contact Fundacion Maquipucuna [+593 2 507200; 507202] or fax [+593 2 507201] e-mail   abi@maqui.ecx.ec. in Quito at Baquerizo 238 and Tamayo , PO Box 17-12-167.


Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve
Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve

A couple of gringos that fell in love with the wild jungle landscapes decided to make the place their home. In 1991, British backpacker Richard Parsons bought a 300-acre [120-hectare] abandoned farm in the Maquipucuna area. Using eucalyptus logs and bamboo, and with the help of local labour and his wife Gloria, Parsons constructed an ecolodge shaped like a geodesic dome on stilts, with lots of windows and big balconies. Built on three levels and roofed with thatch, there are five triple rooms on the first floor and dormitory rooms above. Perched on the edge of a steep hill, the futuristic cupola looks out over the thick jungle carpet of the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve [09 - 490891] where tanagers, toucans and other birds of this paradise flash brightly among deep shades of green.


*Prices are approximate

 

Last updated 19th July 2006

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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