Small town of Saraguro, 165 km [102 miles] south of Cuenca. An attractive, smartly dressed young woman wearing a black bowler hat, snow-white blouse, wide black skirt and black woolen shawl closed with a large silver pin, holding a small child, climbs down from the bus. She is one of the Saraguro indigenas, said to be descended from the Inca tribes who settled this area. Many of them are quite wealthy and well educated. The shawl pin, or tupu, is a characteristic Saraguro accessory, as are filigree earrings, both of which are family treasures passed down from generation to generation. This traditional jewelry can be bought in some of the small shops in town. The Inca ruins in the area are overgrown and hard to find, definitely off the Gringo Trail.

Getting there. There is a frequent bus service to Loja [2 hours, US$2.20*]. To Cuenca with Viajeros Cooperative [5 hours, US$3*].

West from Saraguro
During June to September you may take a scenic route to Celen Selva Alegre, Manu, Guanazan and Chilla and on to the coast, the former has a church where pilgrims gather in September to visit the virgin and accommodation is available in the Pilgrims guest house called Casa de Huespedes.

*The prices are approximately

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||

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