The best way to see the Galapagos is as Charles Darwin did, by boat. You sleep through the hours covering the considerable distances from island to island. Although expensive, most people book their tour of the Galapagos as a complete package with a travel agent in their home country. This usually includes international flights, hotels and transfers on the mainland, flights out to the Galapagos, and the complete cruise around the islands. Insurance, tips, alcoholic drinks and entrance fee to the Galapagos National Park aren’t usually covered. Most packages fly you to Quito, and then on via Guayaquil to either Baltra or San Cristobal, where you embark immediately on your boat.

Boat tours are mostly a week long, but larger boats often offer three- to four-day cruises as well. Most people visit two visitors’ sites a day, one in the morning and another in the afternoon, and return to the boat to eat, sleep and relax. Be aware that you will rarely be the only group at a particular site. Some believe three or four days is enough time to spend on a boat and see the islands and the wildlife. But if you spend longer you will have a much deeper experience and discover the differences between the islands. Another plus is that you will encounter few other visitors on the more remote islands. Serious wildlife enthusiasts should consider going on a two-week tour to some of the even more-distant and less-visited islands, as well as the central sites.

It is also possible to make your own arrangements to visit the Galapagos. You can buy your flights yourself and book your cruise when you arrive in Quito, Guayaquil or Puerto Ayora. You can save money this way although in the high season [July, August, December, January and Easter Week] you risk not finding a vacancy on a cruise that suits you. If you have the time, a good plan is to make your way to Puerto Ayora outside the high season and shop around for a trip. This will give you a few days in Puerto Ayora, which itself is worthwhile and enjoyable. If you decide not to buy a cruise you can set up at Puerto Ayora or at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal and take day trips to the nearer islands.

About one hundred vessels operate Galapagos cruises, ranging from simple, converted fishing boats to luxurious cruise ships. All rely on engine power although some also have sails. Which you choose depends on your budget and the style of trip you prefer. The large, comfortable cruise ships offer private bathrooms, air-conditioning, bars and sundecks, and carry up to 100 passengers. The smaller boats vary greatly from fairly simple six-passenger vessels, to comfortable, modern yachts and catamarans carrying 12 to 16 passengers.

A guide licensed by the National Parks Service accompanies each cruise ship and, except in limited areas, no tourist is allowed on land in the park without a guide. A good guide, who knows the Galapagos and its wildlife and your language will immeasurably enrich your trip. Since the Galapagos is a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ destination, in my opinion, it’s worth investing in a good ship and a good guide. Guides are rated by the National Parks Service "Naturalist I, II or III", III being the most qualified and experienced. Before booking a tour confirm that it will include a fully qualified guide who is fluent in the language of your choice. They are responsible for enforcing National Park rules, which stipulate among, other things, that visitors must stay on set trails and that no animals may be touched.

From your newspaper travel sections at home you can see how many tour operators offer Galapagos journeys. Prices can range from US$50* to over US$300* per day [excluding airfares] depending on the boat, facilities, season and how far in advance you reserve it. In general, the further you are from the islands when you buy a tour, the higher the cost, although with some of the most expensive cruises the cost will be the same in Quito, London or New York. Don’t forget that the crew and the guides aren’t paid well and are very dependent on tips. Each passenger is expected to pay about US$4* per day for the crew and US$5* per day for the guide. The following is a selection of operators in Ecuador based on experience or strong recommendations. Exclusion of any company doesn’t imply poor service.

*The prices are approximately

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||

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